No flash in the pan
Modest looking Japanese restaurant offers extensive and impressive menu
Published: 27/11/2009 at 10:00 AM
Newspaper section: Realtime
 
When I first learned about J-Pan, a Japanese barbecue eatery-cum-sushi joint opened at the beginning of the year, I wasn't thrilled to check it out. But as I'm writing a review of the restaurant I earlier believed was just another evidence of trend-catching and market-driven business opportunity, the memory of an impressive lunch I had there last week was as clear as if it had happened a few minutes ago.
 
The interior of the 11-month-old eatery is simple and casual. PHOTOS: ANUSORN SAKSEREE
 
In terms of the setting, the restaurant had nothing to brag about. The location was simply described as "on the second storey of Foodland on Sukhumvit Soi 16" while the dining room was rather small and modestly decorated.

The menu, however, was another story. It featured over 200 items including impressive selections of meats for teppanyaki and yaki shabu-style dining, a
wide variety of sashimi, sushi and maki rolls (mostly classics), a nice collection of appetisers and an extensive list of grilled and simmered items and noodle and rice dishes.
     

In a half-occupied 63-seat dining room, we started off our weekday lunch with gyu tataki, or beef spicy salad (200 baht), which was remarkably delicious. Presented in thin slices, the meat was slightly grilled only on the edge to give a pleasant grilled aroma while the centre was still uncooked to offer a fresh, sweet taste and melt-in-the-mouth texture. The beef was perfectly complemented with the dressing that lent a sharp and tangy kick.

Being here, you shouldn't miss the fun of DIY barbecue - not because the cooking station is set right in front of you but because the taste you get is really worth a sauce stain on your shirt.

  
  The Japanese pizza
  prepared on your table.
 
Each table at J-Pan is equipped with a teppanyaki-style griddle (called yaki shabu), not a conventional griller, to prevent the carbon fumes from the burning charcoal underneath sullying the meat. So your grilled meat is promised to come "clean" without the black, unhealthy scraps.
For that, we ordered three choices of beef, an order of cow's tongue and pork. The matsusaka beef (1,760 baht), which looked a bit pale thanks to its intricate, white marbling proved to be well worth the price. With only slight chewing, this tender piece of red meat - best when flash grilled, and not over-cooked - yielded a super juicy texture that nicely burst out its sweet fat in your mouth.

We also tried the less pricey options. The local beef striploin (180 baht), presenting succulent meat with adequate amount of fat intact, was also delightful. But the most good-looking and tastiest choice of all was the imported special striploin called toksen (320 baht). This Japanese-cut beef with clear-cut marble lines inscribed in a single direction on the bright red meat gave out a pleasant, not-too-flimsy chew. My two beef connoisseur friends and I agreed that the quality and taste definitely excelled its price.
 
The restaurant offers a carbon-free barbecue with an impressive selection of meat and seafood.
 
Boston butt (120 baht) was our choice of pork. This famous cut came from a pig's fatty shoulder (not the behind) known for its extra juiciness. Even when cooked thoroughly, the meat maintained its tender and flavourful quality, and wasn't at all stiff.

If you try to avoid the cholesterol of the meat, the cow's tongue (150 baht) provides a good alternative. Served in thin slices, the tongue provided a less beefy taste but with a crunchier texture.
 

The barbecue was perfectly enjoyed with the restaurant's special dipping sauce, which can be even more tantalising with a squeeze of lime juice.

Your table-top barbecue station can be turned into (and is popular as) a griddle for DIY okonomiyaki, aka Japanese pizza. Our crispy, chunky and tasty seafood okonomiyaki (190 baht), which we made ourselves, came out beautifully.
 

I was told that every diner's table, whether they'd ordered the barbecue or not, usually never missed having sashimi or sushi.

Our order, assorted prime-graded sashimi (1,950 baht) presented salmon, yellowtail, tuna, toro, scallops and surf clam, and was gratifying - a nicer comment would've been given if it arrived more chilled.

 

  
Gyu tataki, partially cooked beef in sour and spicy salad dressing.

 
A friend was completely thrilled with unagi sushi (180 baht) featuring a huge piece of grilled teriyaki glazed eel on top of sushi rice. The very fatty and soft fish meat promised to delight discerning eel aficionados but can taste overly oily for those who aren't familiar. Grilled eel, as an a la carte choice (420 baht), is also available in a generous portion.

At lunchtime on weekdays, one of the restaurant's best-sellers are the lunch sets (140-350 baht) which are favoured among office workers who come for a quick and value-for-money meal. We'd have loved to sample several items on the menu; the sukiyaki, diced beef steak and deep-fried breaded salmon sets sounded delectable, but had a very little room left in our stomachs. So we decided to share a gindara miso set (350 baht), which featured a decent fillet of snowfish,

The unagi sushi presents grilled teriyaki-glazed eel on top of rice.
 
marinated in homemade sweet and salty miso sauce before being grilled, a bowl of rice, a soup and a relish.

Among 10 dessert choices, we went for cold tofu souffle (50 baht), a milky custard in scented fresh milk - a great option if you don't like something very sweet, and lychee jelly (40 baht), a fragrant and refreshing treat made with lychee flesh and juice. Both were pleasant.

 

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